FAQs

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Some problems are under your nose. You can detect them by their odor:

The smell of burned toast - a light, sharp odor - often signals an electrical short and burning insulation. To be safe, try not to drive the vehicle until the problem is diagnosed.

The smell of rotten eggs - a continuous burning sulphur smell - usually indicates a problem in the catalytic converter or other emission control devices. Don't delay diagnosis and repair.

A thick acrid odor usually means burning oil. Look for sign of a leak.

The smell of gasoline vapors after a failed start may mean you have flooded the engine. Wait a few minutes before trying again. If the odor persists, chances are there's a leak in the fuel system; a potentially dangerous problem that needs immediate attention.

Burning resin or an acrid chemical odor may signal overheated brakes or clutch. Check the parking brake. Stop. Allow the brakes to cool after repeated hard braking on mountain roads. Light smoke coming from a wheel indicates a stuck brake. The vehicle should be towed for repair.

A sweet, steamy odor indicates a coolant leak. If the temperature gauge or warning light does not indicate overheating, drive carefully to the nearest service station, keeping an eye on your gauges. If the odor is accompanied by a hot, metallic scent and steam from under the hood, your engine has overheated. Pull over immediately. Continued driving could cause severe engine damage. The vehicle should be towed for repair.

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Yellowish green, pastel blue or florescent orange colors indicate an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump or leaking radiator.

A dark brown or black oily fluid means the engine is leaking oil. A bad seal or gasket could cause the leak.

A red oily spot indicates a transmission or power steering fluid leak.

A puddle of clear water usually is no problem. It may be normal condensation from your vehicle's air conditioner.

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Small stains or an occasional drop of fluid under your vehicle may not mean much. But wet spots deserve attention; check puddles immediately.

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The more you know about your vehicle, the more likely you'll be able to head off repair problems. You can detect many common vehicle problems by using your senses: eye balling the area around your vehicle, listening for strange noises, sensing a difference in the way your vehicle handles or even noticing unusual odors.

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Document all transactions as well as your experiences with dates, times, expenses and the names of people you dealt with. Talk to the shop manager or owner first. If that doesn't work, contact your Attorney General or local consumer protection agency for help. These offices may have information on alternative dispute resolution programs in your community. Another option is to file a claim in small claims court. You don't need an attorney to do this.

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Many vehicle dealers and others sell optional contracts; service contracts issued by vehicle manufacturers or independent companies. Not all service contracts are the same; prices vary and usually are negotiable. To help decide whether to purchase a service contract, consider:

• Its cost.
• The repairs to be covered.
• Whether coverage overlaps coverage provided by any other warranty.
• The deductible.
• Where the repairs are to be performed.
• Procedures required to file a claim, such as prior authorization for specific repairs or meeting required vehicle maintenance schedules.
• Whether repair costs are paid directly by the company to the repair shop or whether you will have to pay first and get reimbursed.
• The reputation of the service contract company. Check it out with your state Attorney General's office or local consumer protection agency.

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There is no "standard warranty" on repairs. Make sure you understand what is covered under your warranty and get it in writing. Be aware that warranties may be subject to limitations, including time, mileage, deductibles, businesses authorized to perform warranty work or special procedures required to obtain reimbursement. Check with the Federal Trade Commission or your state or local consumer protection agency for information about your warranty rights.

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Follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule in your owner's manual for your type of driving. Some repair shops create their own maintenance schedules, which call for more frequent servicing than the manufacturer's recommendations. Compare shop maintenance schedules with those recommended in your owner's manual. Ask the repair shop to explain and make sure you understand why it recommends service beyond the recommended schedule.

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Ask for recommendations from friends, family and other people you trust. Look for an auto repair shop before you need one to avoid being rushed into a last minute decision. Shop around by telephone for the best deal and compare warranty policies on repairs. Ask to see current licenses if state or local law requires repair shops to be licensed or registered. Also, your state Attorney General's office or local consumer protection agency may know whether there's a record of complaints about a particular repair shop. Make sure the shop will honor your vehicle's warranty.

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Look for shops that display various certifications - like an Automotive Service Excellence seal. Certification indicates that some or all of the technicians meet basic standards of knowledge and competence in specific technical areas. Make sure the certifications are current, but remember that certification alone is no guarantee of good or honest work. Ask if the technician or shop has experience working on the same make or model vehicle as yours.

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Before you arrange to have any work performed, ask how the shop prices its work. Some shops charge a flat rate for labor on auto repairs. This published rate is based on an independent or manufacturer's estimate of the time required to complete repairs. Others charge on the basis of the actual time the technician worked on the repair. If you need expensive or complicated repairs, or if you have questions about recommended work, consider getting a second opinion. Find out if there will be a diagnostic charge if you decide to have the work performed elsewhere. Many repair shops charge for diagnostic time. Shops that do only diagnostic work and do not sell parts or repairs may be able to give you an objective opinion about which repairs are necessary. If you decide to get the work done, ask for a written estimate.

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It should identify the condition to be repaired, the parts needed, and the anticipated labor charge. Make sure you get a signed copy. It should state that the shop will contact you for approval before they do any work exceeding a specified amount of time or money. State law may require this.

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New - These parts generally are made to original manufacturer's specifications, either by the vehicle manufacturer or an independent company. Your state may require repair shops to tell you if non original equipment will be used in the repair. Prices and quality of these parts vary.

Remanufactured, rebuilt and reconditioned - These terms generally mean the same thing: parts have been restored to a sound working condition. Many manufacturers offer a warranty covering replacement parts, but not the labor to install them.

Salvage - These are used parts taken from another vehicle without alteration. Salvage parts may be the only source for certain items, though their reliability is seldom guaranteed.

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Get a completed repair order describing the work done. It should list each repair, parts supplied, the cost of each part, labor charges and the vehicle's odometer reading when you brought the vehicle in as well as when the repair order was completed. Ask for all replaced parts. State law may require this.

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Many parts on your vehicle are interrelated. Ignoring maintenance can lead to trouble: specific parts or an entire system can fail. Neglecting even simple routine maintenance, such as changing the oil or checking the coolant, can lead to poor fuel economy, unreliability, or costly breakdowns. It also may invalidate your warranty.